ragingyoghurt

Monthly Archives: October 2008

2

speaking of adriano zumbo (hem)…

well. you might have noticed i went the last three months without posting a single cake photo. that’s not to say none were eaten. it’s just, the combination of feeling poor, and fat, and sick all at once really scuttled any ambition to eat my way through the entire collection. and besides, you don’t really need me to tell you about them — everyone blogs about zumbo these days, including belle, who recently posted an enviable summary of her dalliances. onya!

but so. cakes were eaten, and these are them.

the first one that caught my fancy was the petit st honore. a cakey biscuit (or biscuity cake) base topped with mad swirls of tonka bean creme chantilly, adorned with sliced strawberries and four miniature profiteroles. each one was glazed in perfect, cracklicious toffee, and filled with a divine passionfruit pastry cream.

i wikipediad tonka beans, and discovered that eaten in substantial amounts, they can be quite toxic. however, safely contained within this masterful structure, it tasted clean and curious, like ozone cream.

i deepened my infatuation with caramel with the dulce de leche eclair, a neat little package of chewy choux wearing a stripe of sticky caramel. the filling of caramel pastry cream was just wonderful — rich and creamy with an undercurrent of burnt sugar. i wolfed this one down — it was small, and i was hungry — and immediately wished i had another.

and then there was a day in the time of sickness when i felt like cake, but thought it had to be a gentle and comforting cake for the infirm. i went against the recommendations of the counterboy that day; i think he was nudging me towards the giant pink macaron filled with cherries and chocolate and coconut.

i picked the open sesame, with its delicate secret layers of yoghurt mousse and honey-date cremeux. and the slightly soggy sesame brittle that it wore as its armour.

it was very yoghurty, which i enjoyed, but in the end the texture just seemed too homogenised, and the flavour somewhat bland. of course, that was a time in which i couldn’t actually taste anything, so don’t take my word for it. it could have been a very cultured party in my mouth if i hadn’t been quite so ill.

it was a great many weeks after i first saw it in the case that i finally conquered cinque terre. the luscious ribbon of baked meringue had always called to me, like the hypnotic rattle of a sidewinder meandering through the dessert sands. i ate the layers together, and then separately, and then all together again, and couldn’t decide which way i preferred. there are cakey bits and moussey bits. creamy lemony bits and brittle chocolatey bits. raspberry bits. there are candied olives! this is a great cake. g r e a t.

the one i had most recently — o-live life — i had on a sweltering day. by the time i got it home, the olive oil mousse, though still holding its shape, was almost liquid in texture. at this temperature, the fruity olive oil was quite commanding, a big, round flavour that filled my mouth and then vanished down my throat slippery quick. the tart raspberries sequestered within were a cunning — and perfect — foil. the rice pudding creme? well, you know how i feel about rice pudding. i must warn you though: the berries only go round halfway.

and thassit. a modest roundup by all accounts, to which i may only add one or two more before the end of the run. there is one i have had my eye on from the beginning: the tanzanie, whose components are flourless chocolate biscuit, chocolate jelly, chocolate ganache, vanilla brulee, chocolate mousse and chocolate meringue. it is crowned with a magnificent wave of dark chocolate. i don’t know how i have not had it yet. but soon, my pet, soon.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 9 October 2008 at 11:02 pm
permalink | filed under cake

6

as we walked that stretch of circular quay between the lego blocks and the cardboard cartons yesterday, we were stunned to see that a chocolate cafe had materialised in the toaster, right next to the dendy cinemas. mid-afternoon, after the rain had cleared, and a modest skyscraper had been constructed out of five cardboard boxes, we popped into the brand-spankin’-new guylian belgian chocolate cafe.

it was an impulsive move: we had eaten lunch not too long ago, and the kid was in that precarious mid-afternoon mood. but what do you do when 1. you stumble upon a new chocolate cafe and 2. you decide on a whim to enter said cafe? you can’t really have just a cup of tea and a biscuit.

can you?

well. we certainly couldn’t. as i read down the list in the menu (which took rather longer than necessary to be presented), the kid expressed her interest in certain items by repeating them back at me.

“cheesecake!” she said at one point. and then, “milkshake!”.

all right then. the dark chocolate buche filled with raspberry cream would just have to wait.

the dark chocolate raspberry cheesecake, though, appeared soon enough, a squat slice cut from a fat, round cake. it was surrounded by swirls and puddles — raspberry coulis and white chocolate sauce — and the kid went straight for the heart-shaped pool of red. the cake itself was dense and chocolatey, sitting on a base of slightly soggy, lemon-scented biscuit crumb, and there were clearly bits of real raspberries in it: we crunched on the seeds. although it seemed like a modest serve when it arrived, in the end it remained unvanquished. would this have been different if we had been less laden with lunch? or if the cake had been that bit more delicious?

perhaps it was the milkshake’s fault. though for something called “chocolate shake”, it wasn’t overly chocolatey. in fact, i wouldn’t even say it was chocolatish. what it was mostly, was a glass of cold milk, with a small, partially intact scoop of vanilla ice cream in it, and the inside of the glass had been zigzagged with molten chocolate, which, by virtue of sitting in a volume of cold milk, had solidified completely. how very strange to have to scrape these trails of hard chocolate off the surface of the glass.

i guess if it had been an actual chocolatey chocolate shake, we might have died. as it is, we didn’t even get to the bottom of the glass. there were a lot of milkshakes going round that afternoon, and trade in general seemed brisk. when i asked the guy behind the counter when they’d opened, he said, only a little agitatedly, “two days ago”.

i really must work on getting my tolerance for rich chocolate desserts back up to the levels they were five years ago. you must know by now, the adriano zumbo chocolate cafe opens at the end of the week.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 7 October 2008 at 10:45 pm
permalink | filed under around town, cake, chocolate, kid

4

we looked the drizzle in the eye today, the kid and i, and we headed down to circular quay for the sydney architecture festival.

down in front of the opera house, the rain had stymied the cardboard city; a thousand paper cartons lay in wait under a giant sheet of green tarp. but over at customs house, beneath the tents that had sprung up overnight, another city was taking shape.

a megalopolis of lego!

there must have been millions of pieces of plastic there, spread out over a bunch of trestle tables. every person that showed up was given a little bumpy mat, pointed to an empty spot at one of the tables, and given free reign over the crates (and crates and crates) of lego.

there were some amazing creations, like the building made entirely of doors…

…and the one made entirely of heads.

and the kid wanted to touch everything…

but got bored surprisingly quickly when it came time to build her own.

drawing’s more her medium, i think. she’s in her mermaid phase.

though sparkly princess fairy shoes come a close second.

boy! it feels good to be walking about again.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 6 October 2008 at 11:37 pm
permalink | filed under around town, kid

3

back when i was deathly ill — well, i’ve finally taken the last antibiotic tonight, so really, the bugs could be back, stronger, tomorrow — my good sister called up to check that i was still alive. we had been talking for a little while, when she casually announced that she had just online-ordered me a box of groceries from fratelli fresh, and that these groceries would be with me the next day, and that maybe i shouldn’t buy a bunch of asparagus if i went out shopping before then.

and truly, the next afternoon, an enormous cardboard carton showed up, gleaming white and emblazoned with swirly gold script. it was like christmas come early, though of course, the packer had somehow forgotten to include the bunch of asparagus.

but what a bounty!

1x punnet tomatoes – cherry
1x 400g cannellini beans
1x 300g jam – homemade – conservi del padre – raspberry
1x 250g pasta – guiseppe cocco no. 15 egg papperdelle
1x 500g pasta – guiseppe cocco no. 59 orecchiette
1x 250g cheese – ricotta – paesanella
1x 1kg mandarins – imperial
1x punnet berries – blueberries
1x 150g peas – snow peas
1x 190g antipasti – mushroom fantasy in olive oil
1x 100g deli – mortadella – sliced
1x 500g sausage – lamb, rosemary and garlic
1x each bread – fruit loaf

you really can’t tell from the descriptions on a packing slip, and so you will be amazed that a kilo of mandarins numbers 30, and 100g of mortadella is but four slices (but still a magnificent offering packed on a golden board with a fancy sticker), and the lamb sausages are from a.c. butchery.

i expect nellie had already prepared the meal in her head — a couple of nights later we had orecchiette with sausages and snow peas.

of course, you must remove the meat from the casing, and fry it up with chopped garlic and a tin of tomatoes, and then later in the game you can add some broccoli florets, and roughly sliced snowpea pods, and a handful of frozen peas for good measure.

and while you are eating it, you will smile large, and toast the good name of your good sister, and curse the day and a half — and the halfway ’round the world — that separates you.

happy birthday, nellicent!

posted by ragingyoghurt on 6 October 2008 at 10:50 pm
permalink | filed under kitchen, nellie, shoping
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