ragingyoghurt

Category Archives: kitchen

3

the days streak by like lightning.

our baubles arrived in the mail today: shiny smooth perspex clouds, with dangly lightning bolts. i couldn’t decide on gold lightning or pink, so i got one of each. you have until 10am tomorrow (wednesday) to get a bunch of plastic jewellery for a song. these ones are most appropriate for the weather right now.

right now, i’m working on a job that doesn’t want to end. last night i breathed a sigh of relief and prepared to write up a hefty invoice, but this afternoon, there it was again, mocking me from my inbox. truly, it makes me want to staple my head.

it didn’t stop us, though, from watching hours of kid’s programming on tv as we played a gambly game of “i wonder if the rain’s stopped now, so we can go out” (no.). it didn’t stop us building a slightly flawed train network (much like our great city’s) across the red carpet.

it didn’t stop us from making toasted cheese/green apple/green peppercorn mustard sandwiches — lightly toast some nice grainy bread, spread each piece with a little butter and top with thinly sliced granny smiths and tasty cheese. stick them under the grill until cheese bubbles. dab mustard over one of the slices, then plop the other on top. sweet-sour, wilted-crunchy all at once, with a double thick layer of oozy, mustardy cheese bang in the middle.

we split a mandarin for dessert, and then we bravely went forth into madeleine battle, round two. it was only 2pm, and the rain was relentless.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 8 April 2008 at 10:42 pm
permalink | filed under kid, kitchen, lunch, werk

1

good friday, i served up — somewhat sacrilegiously — a shepherd’s pie for dinner: lamb (of god) mince, cooked with a couple tins of tomatoes, most of a tin of chickpeas, diced carrot and sweet potato, and rather a lot of broccoli. the potato topping was mashed with the remaining chickpeas, and dotted — as prescribed by stephanie alexander — with butter. i do not know why i have not made a shepherd’s pie before this, but it’s a fine way to eat two large potatoes in one sitting.

i figured i’d walked it off earlier that afternoon. we walked from the heart of the city into chinatown for vietnamese — pho bo tai and some porky nem. good old chinatown, who else would be open to feed you when everyone else shuts down to commemorate the lord’s passing? after, we walked the length of the city to get to the botanic gardens. around the time jesus gave up the ghost, the skies above us grew dark and ominous, and the bats ever more shrieky. we caught a bus home then, before the heavens opened.

easter saturday, after a companionable lunch of pastrami bagels and ginger beer, i headed into kinko’s on broadway to rustle up some grunge on the photocopier. kinko’s — that bastion of 24-hour print self-servicery — was shut. the bastards! i hightailed it to the big kinko’s in the city, and it was a hive of activity. blowing up line drawings to 400% — now that was like coming home. but, ok, for actual homecoming, i stopped by BBQ king for a box of their finest, stickiest char siu.

easter sunday, the easter bunny — visiting from chiltern, victoria — presented me with a giant lindt easter egg casket, and the kid with a startling assortment of lesser chocolates. a good start to the day, which went on to include the circus festival at darling harbour, a BBQ pork bun picnic, the parisian toy boats exhibition at the maritime museum, and then a meandering walk through pyrmont, over the anzac bridge, up the back streets of balmain, and home to leftover shepherd’s pie.

we ate a lot of meat this weekend, and i was glad for the cleansing veggie wrap of easter monday. we walked a lot through the city this weekend — it’s both infuriating and a joy. in between i finished a drawing of what may become a CD cover, hopefully. it feels good to be working again.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 25 March 2008 at 12:55 pm
permalink | filed under around town, dinner, kitchen

4

this is how to make a makeshift sausage risotto:

buy some nice sausages. (today at about life, we picked a pack of toulouse sausages from eumundi smokehouse: pork, with pepper and white wine.) split the sausage skins and fry the meat in a small amount of oil, just to break it up and brown it a little. remove the meat from the wok. there should be a puddle of sausagey oil in which you can now fry a finely-diced onion. and some risotto rice.

you would have had you stock on another burner, of course. this may be that stuff out of the freezer that you made three or four months earlier by boiling the remains of a roast chicken dinner. add the stock one painstaking ladle at a time, while it is slowly absorbed by the rice.

i think you generally have to stir for like, thirty to forty minutes? halfway through, return the sausage meat to the rice, then keep going. you might want to sample a couple of grains of rice from time to time, just to see if it’s cooked through enough. you will be excited by the rich, meaty flavour of the broth — the extreme savouriness — and encouraged by the cries from across the counter in the loungeroom, “oh my god, that smells so tasty!”

when the rice has just about lost its al dente-ness, it’s time for mantecatura! i don’t beat in quite as much butter as locatelli prescribes (75 grams), but i like the symbolism. also, i don’t generally add parmesan because i don’t crave the cheesiness.

this is how to fuck up a makeshift — though promising — sausage risotto:

the last couple of times i made this, i added a handful of rocket after turning off the heat. it wilts and adds colour, and a foil to the meatiness.

this afternoon at about life, we’d procured a bag of organic rocket — wild rocket, actually, from ladybird organics. and now i think the “wild” makes all the difference in the world, because where the rocket i’d been buying previously from the local fruitshop was mild and pleasant, this organic stuff was really something else. a vile weed from hell!

the thing is, after plating up, i also dolloped a spoonful of rocket pesto onto the mound of risotto, for dramatic effect, so you can stir through for a uniform green tinge, or a burst of something extra. again, when i’ve bought this at the fruitshop up the road, it’s been like the icing on a cake, a little salty green accent to the grand starchy statement. the about life house pesto is a startling emerald green, just gorgeous, but it was like eating poison. the bitterness, just from the tiniest first contact with our tongues, was like one of life’s harshest lessons. i guess in this case, that lesson would be: taste the damn pesto before you use it. or at least, read the label to discover that it contains just a healthy blend of rockets (sic), pistachios, lemon juice and olive oil, and then choose another pesto with salt, and maybe even cheese.

i put an empty bowl on the table, to contain the pesto i was not ashamed to scrape off the top of the risotto. we thought that would take care of things; we trusted that the bitterness had been contained. but we were wrong: it lingered. and that was when we realised what set wild rocket apart from the regular tame stuff.

we scraped the risotto off our spoons with our teeth so that it would not touch our lips, and at least one of us contorted herself so that she could swallow each mouthful without it touching her tongue. did you succeed, nellicent?

we made it through the meal, giggling from the awfulness, and we did not go back for seconds even though there was plenty left in the wok. in fact, after dinner, i spent a good few minutes picking out each strand of wilted rocket from the rice. and then when i had amassed a sizeable tangle, i took a photo of it. sigh.

but see, i’m not discouraging you from making your own sausage-and-rocket risotto — no way, it can be wonderful — but you might just want to check that you’re not using any hardcore, top-of-the-line, clean-living type ingredients.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 5 March 2008 at 9:44 pm
permalink | filed under dinner, kitchen, nellie

6

really, we can’t get enough of the sprinkles.

so, ho ho, we made gingerbread, at the start of the month, and again on tuesday. any excuse to break out the all-natural-coloured sprinkles, the startlingly fake-coloured flowers, and the silver dragees. that long-ago gift of a tin of pink dean and deluca sugar came in handy too. we even went out in search of tiny candies, and returned with a package of pez (with a very blond disney princess dispenser) and a tube of mini m’n'ms.

small was crucial, because the gingerbread-house cutters i had found were for gingerbread houses about two inches tall. and the gingerbread-man cutter i’d been given for my birthday (thanks, sonya!) were for similarly-statured gingerbread men.

the kid takes a somewhat freeform approach to decorating the little men: as many little m’n'ms as she can fit. which makes for quite a lovely, chocolatey biscuit.

and so i leave you with this: the waitrose gingerbread recipe. i used backstrap molasses instead of golden syrup –

[ now. given the choice between a locally-produced molasses, which is a by-product of the sugar-refining process, or the organic molasses produced solely for its end result of molasses... way the hell over in peru, which would be the ethical choice? do you buy local, or organic free trade air miles? does it make a difference if the organic one has a pretty label, while the local one is kind of plain and has a black trickle down the side of the jar where it has leaked out like a by-product of say, a petroleum-refining process? these are the thoughts that went through my head as i stood in the aisle of the health food shop. imagine the thoughts i had while debating whether or not to use a raw egg white icing recipe! ]

– and a couple more teaspoons of a couple more spices (cinnamon and nutmeg), and ended up with a dark brown biscuit, crisp and crunchy. it was very sweet, and still not really spicy.

my plane leaves in about three hours. my fingers are numb.

happy xmas to you.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 21 December 2007 at 1:30 pm
permalink | filed under cake, candy, chocolate, kid, kitchen

6

anytime is good for cake, of course, but this time of year, there’s a tiny bit more than usual in this household: october is the kid’s birthday, and then mine in november, and two weeks ago, right at the start of december, the boy’s.

i’d been wondering out loud a few days prior such things as “would you like a chocolate passionfruit tart?” and “what about an old skool cream sponge from the vietnamese bakery? what about a lamington cream sponge??”, but on the day, he requested a pavlova, with passionfruit, and that was that.

except it sort of wasn’t. monday morning, i set the refrigerated eggs on the kitchen counter so they’d be perfect room temperature when the time came for the beating. i took the kid to music class; we went out for birthday dimsum. and then mid-afternoon, we returned home, and i discovered that the eggs had been returned to the fridge. such callous and violent efficiency makes me want to weep. (and maybe i did weep? i can’t remember.)

a couple hours later, back on the bench, the eggshells were still cool to the touch, and i made the fool decision to proceed anyway. the beating of the eggwhites was not a success. well, it was a partial success, but the peaks to which we aspired did not eventuate. and then the hour and a half of baking, and the instructions to cool completely in the oven… as time went by, it became painfully and sorrowfully clear that there would be no birthday pavlova.

but there was day-after-birthday pavlova. and that turned out ok. better than, even. the meringue was a bit spongier than i’d like, but covered in a big, fluffy doona of whipped cream, a couple of sliced-up mangoes and a drizzle of passionfruit, it had no reason to feel a lesser cake. truly, a golden moment.

here’s what you might do with your cream, if you make a mango pavlova. whip your cream as normal, perhaps adding some vanilla extract along the way. when it reaches optimum consistency, gently fold in a small tub of peach and mango yoghurt. hell, beat some more, if you like. the yoghurt gives a fresh tang to the cream, and a little voluptuous body, and the bits of fruit — bells and whistles, sure, but who doesn’t like a little jingle-jangle from time to time.

this was the first pavlova i’d made since acquiring an electric mixer — how could it have been so long since the last one? — and it made me feel like i should be whipping them up every couple of weeks from now on.

but not for the boy. no longer. over the last few weeks, he’s packed his stuff, moved it all into a corner in the loungeroom. it’s a large corner, which shrank substantially this morning when his dad loaded a portion of it into a trailer, and drove off into the country with it. the rest goes after xmas, with the boy. there is sadness hanging over us, and regret. and relief, and warmth. ten years is a long time, but god, it went by quick. so clear, the memory of exchanging numbers on the train back to the city on mardi gras night, and sitting at the base of the rusted metal pubic art on the hill at sydney park, looking at my sneakers… a headphone bud, bursting with accordians from “amelie”, being slipped into my ear on an overnight bus from hue.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 16 December 2007 at 10:34 pm
permalink | filed under boy, cake, kitchen

3

what better way to start the day than with a big bowl of warm crumble in a puddle of cream? every now and again, i dig out my trusty crumble recipe (actually luke mangan’s crumble recipe, from the sydney morning herald a while ago); with rhubarb at $2.99 a bunch, and strawberries at $2.50 a punnet, now was one of those times.

luke mangan’s rhubarb and passionfruit crumble
6 stalks rhubarb, chopped
1/3 cup passionfruit pulp
250g strawberries, hulled and halved
1/4 cup caster sugar

for topping:
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 1/3 cups rolled oats
1/2 cup plain flour
90g butter, softened
1 tsp ground cinnamon

preheat oven to 160C. combine rhubarb, passionfruit, strawberries and sugar in a bowl and divide between 6 x 1 cup capacity ramekins.
to make the topping, combine brown sugar, oats, flour, butter and cinnamon. spoon topping on the top of the fruit and bake for 30 minutes or until the top is golden and fruit is soft. serves 4.

i’ve never actually made it with passionfruit, but have added pears regularly — as i did on this occasion — or cherries, and sometimes apples. also, i bake it in one large baking dish rather than little ramekins, which requires quite a bit more baking time: you’d have to keep checking to see when the rhubarb and strawberry juices were bubbling. if you’re lucky, they bubble right up to the surface and the crumble goes all pink and sticky. mmm…

posted by ragingyoghurt on 28 November 2007 at 9:22 am
permalink | filed under breakfast, cake, kitchen

6

two recipes

1. red velvet cupcake. behold.
i figured i’d be trotting out the ol’ martha stewart one-bowl chocolate cupcake recipe yet again, but when i came across luckykat’s red velvet post a couple of weeks before the kid’s birthday, i knew that i’d have to make them. you know how it is… so hard to resist the mythological cuisine of the american deep south. more importantly though, it looked like a simple enough pair of recipes. lucky, kat had already sourced and tested them for me.

so the day before the birthday saw us two roaming the streets of balmain, buying red food colouring — pillarbox red, as artificial as you can get; raspberries — suddenly up to $8 a punnet; buttermilk — aggravatingly unstocked at the supermarket, but i tracked down the last carton on the peninsula at the local deli, for about twice the going rate. so far, so burning a hole in my wallet.

the cake recipe called for a whole bottle (just a bit more, actually) of red, into which you dissolve a surprisingly small amount of cocoa powder. the cocoa was measured with my wonderful new measuring spoons, a completely surprise present in the mail from the green bananas. look! the bowl of it is actually a miniature mixing bowl!! thanks, santos!!!

and then i chucked a few more things in the batter, and suddenly everything went like molten lava. i filled a tray of regular-sized cakes, and then another of mini ones — and ok, i overfilled so i wouldn’t have to wait for a second round of oven time, the cakes rose dramatically and i was vexed until i figured out that i could hide it all with frosting, hurrah!

this recipe yielded a voluptuous and pillowy soft frosting. there are other versions out there with half the cream cheese, which i guess gives you more definition when piping the icing on. however, i applied mine by dipping each cupcake headfirst into the mixing bowl and then slathering on quite a bit more with a butter knife. the texture was lovely and rich, perfect for licking off the beater at the very end — breakfast of champions…

… although maybe after three or four cupcakes, things go a little funny.

these were great cakes! moist, not overly chocolatey, and very, very sweet. i will definitely make them again, although i may not have to just right now, because there is a box in my freezer with three unfrosted cakes, and another box with a quantity of leftover frosting, and any day now i will complete the experiment called “does cream cheese frosting freeze ok?”. does red velvet cake? we shall see.

- – -

2. spanakopita
a few weeks ago, when spinach was $1 a bunch, i googled a recipe on the internet, and because i neither bookmarked it nor printed it out, i cannot remember where i got it from. tchk. however, because it turned out to be a really good recipe, this afternoon i fished about my recycling bin, and retrieved the scrap of paper on which i’d scribbled down these notes from the screen:

2 pounds spinach — wash, coarsely chop. 907g
2 tbs olive oil
cook onion, chopped, scallions 4
add chopped spinach, handful at time
5 mins, wilted, liquid released
cook on high until dry
stir in 1/4 cup dill
cool. squeeze liquid

large bowl:
4 eggs, beaten
add spinach
8oz feta crumbled 226g
1/2 tsp salt
black pepper

melt butter
1 pound filo
8 sheets bottom
8 top

oven 375°F 190°C
bake 45min

helpful, huh? but see, i cooked off these notes, and it was delicious. i think i may have used just three eggs, and brushed the filo with olive oil instead of butter, to no ill effect. i ♥ spanakopita.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 29 October 2007 at 10:17 pm
permalink | filed under cake, dinner, kid, kitchen

9

i’d like to tell you i’ve been hanging out in all the best places, surrounded by beautiful, um, cakes… but instead i am crazy busy with the kid who has finally outgrown naptime (she has also become toilet-trained, in the same week, so i’m not complaining too much), the kids craft book, the “gilmore girls” dvds, and facebook.

sonya wrote on my wall: “when you don’t update your blog i wonder what you’re eating and if you’re eating at all.”

which is sweet, no? and of course, i have been eating. just a half hour ago i was demolishing a bowl of butterscotch and honeycomb ice cream, with strawberries…

(i love this time of year, when my fridge is full of berries: a punnet and a half of stawberries, two of blueberries, and one of raspberries.)

…and i’ve been making food: spanakopita and wontons and yoghurt cake. stories that i will tell you, one day, soon.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 10 October 2007 at 12:05 am
permalink | filed under cake, kid, kitchen, snacks

6

you know i love a sweet breakfast, oh yes i do. but my favourite could well be mushrooms on toast. i love it so much, sometimes i even have it for lunch.

i used to get it at cafes, but more and more it seemed an exercise so fraught with disappointment: sometimes the mushrooms were too small, or sliced too thin, or not cooked enough, or there were too few of them, or any combination or permutation of the above. now i make my own, and it is better because i get them cooked the way i like, and if i’m actually lucky enough to have a cafe breakfast these days (which generally i’m not), it frees me up to have something like french toast with maple syrup and berries and bacon.

the first rule of mushrooms on toast is that there have to be a lot of mushrooms. look at these pictures; you can barely see the toast.

i use regular medium-sized white button mushrooms, sliced about 5mm thick. sometimes i’ll buy a few bigger mushrooms as well, and mix them in for variations in bite. i chop much more garlic than you might think necessary. i use olive oil and butter. i cook them a long time.

once, at a cafe, i was presented with a few tiny flakes of dry, blackened mushrooms. problem compounded upon problem: too small, too finely-sliced mushrooms, cooked on too high a heat for too short a time. mushrooms really take some time to get going. they absorb the oil, and then sit there, dry, until you begin to wonder if you should add a bit of water to help them along (no, don’t), and then finally they seize up, and relax, and all the mushroom juices ooze out into the pan, ready to christen your toast…

(your toast should be a sturdy enough receptacle for the mushrooms and their juices. i like sonoma soy and linseed sourdough, sliced thick and salty-buttered.)

you can season with just salt and pepper and it will be fine. but you could also drizzle the lot with aioli [above], or stir through some pesto in the last minutes of cooking [below]. if you are lucky, the pesto will be parsley and fetta pesto, and the heat on the cheese will give you a sticky, salty crust which you can eat — gracefully — off your cooking implement.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 30 September 2007 at 9:50 am
permalink | filed under breakfast, kitchen

0

the blackened bananas, thawing all day on a plate on the kitchen counter, seep a thin brown puddle. if you make an incision at one end of the fruit, and apply gentle pressure to the other, the squishy inside glides out whole, and comes to rest curled up like an enormous grub. it is a squeamish and giggly moment, but it is a good thing, because we are one step closer to banana bread.

i’d been hearing about deborah‘s banana bread for a few days — magic loaves that disappeared over a weekend. with little prompting, she pointed me in the direction of the recipe, and offered a tip to swap self-raising flour for the plain with leaveners.

the original recipe is for banana maple bread, but when i tiptoed around the idea of swapping kithul treacle for the maple syrup, deb gave her blessings to go forth! truly the fairy godmother of homebaking, she even voiced the idea i’d had in my head, to sprinkle it in shredded coconut.

although the recipe comes with a warning that the bread “is not super sweet because it has no sugar”, it does ask for 3/4 cup of maple syrup. so i was surprised when it actually wasn’t anywhere as sweet as your typical banana bread. the other surprising thing was that it baked more like a bread than a cake.

i mean, sure it’s called “banana bread”, but it’s normally sweet and moist, and maybe even oily. this wasn’t. my loaf rose magnificently in the pan, almost doubling its height. the first slice i ate, plain and quite recently out of the oven, i was a little disappointed by how unmoist it was, and what a mild flavour it had. but then i realised that this was actually where it was perhaps better than regular banana bread (cake), because it allowed for toppings, without the threat of overwhelming sweetness.

toppings like yoghurt and treacle and toasted coconut. i’ve had this for breakfast four days straight and i’m not sick of it yet. pity the loaf is gone.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 29 September 2007 at 9:06 pm
permalink | filed under breakfast, cake, kitchen
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