The second last time I was there, I stumbled upon a bakery where cream horns were freely sold. The cavity of these were coated in sticky red jam and then filled with fake cream of the highest order. It smacked of humectant, and childhood memory.

The last time I was there, I obtained from the backroom of a record store, the window display posters from the preovious trip: for the eels! drawn by Adrian Tomine!