ragingyoghurt

Category Archives: kitchen

4

in the back of your pantry there are two bags of world rices in 90 seconds (!), a long-ago gift from an eccentric uncle. pre-cooked rice — basmati, in this instance — in a plastic pouch that you microwave on high for a minute and a half. maybe you were suspicious of them for the longest time, months they lay in the back of your pantry. good thing, then, that there was no expiry date on the package. because when your mid-week pasta plans are scuttled, the rices will come to your rescue.

really, there is no need to be afraid. even if the rice is a bit chalky straight out of the bag, you can fix it, hack it, even, with diced-up, fried-up eggplant and zucchini, a sprinkle of moroccan spice mix, a lot of garlic; raisins; toasted almond slivers; cubes of creamy fetta, tossed together on low heat and then left in the wok to develop a bit of a crust on the bottom.

if you top it with slices of fried chorizo and garlic-roasted cherry tomatoes, arranged like a big red flower, it will look like something out of a fancy cookbook — maybe even an international cookbook from the late-70s.

but, ok, really: rice in 90 seconds. is that ridiculous?

posted by ragingyoghurt on 22 September 2007 at 11:02 pm
permalink | filed under dinner, kitchen

4

i know it reads like i don’t eat normal food anymore — even to me — but of course this is not true. no, really. it’s just that in the light of lovely shiny cakes, mushroom blogging might seem a little boring. however. since i did learn from someone today that “boring” does not mean it is not good, i shall tell you what became of the mushrooms i bought this afternoon at harris farm.

i think you know the ones: a tray of enoki, shiitake, shimeji and oyster mushrooms, a tidy harvest for just under $6, and a perfect serving for two. i sauteed them with minced ginger and garlic, in sesame oil with a little salt. i tossed them through some pre-cooked soba noodles with a glug of soba dipping sauce and a good sprinkle of sesame seed furikake; just a few minutes of warm mushroom contact infused the noodles with a lovely, earthy aroma. i served it up with panfried salmon and grilled baby bokchoy. if, before cooking, you are generous with the grinding of salt and pepper on the salmon skin, you will be rewarded with a crunchy sheet of saltiness to nibble at in-between all the other stuff.

the kid, when she found out it was salmon for dinner, began asking for “some salmon, in my hand, please” on the way home from school. she ate it all, before deftly and fastidiously removing every single strand of enoki hiding out amongst the soba, and placing them in a tidy tangle by her bowl.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 5 September 2007 at 11:07 pm
permalink | filed under dinner, kid, kitchen

1

i recently met this woman… ok, another mum in the kid’s tuesday music class, and this is what she said to me:

“my husband is away on business tonight, so i’ll be having a lean cuisine — pasta with salmon — and a glass of white wine. and watching “the bill”.”

i mean, in essence this is probably what i’d do too, except what i’d be pulling from my freezer is that braised lamb, mushroom, brandy and rosemary ravioli from peppe’s pasta. while that was boiling, i would saute diced onions, garlic and carrots in olive oil and butter, with a bay leaf and a few drops of water to keep it from drying out. towards the end, i’d add some small florets of broccoli. and then, probably, right at the end, i’d stir in a little extra bit of butter, i dunno, for shine?

by then the ravioli would be ready, and i’d add it to the sauce and swirl it all around just to get it all coated, and i would empty the pot into a large bowl, and it would be delicious, because there is real meat in the pasta, and none of that sawdust or breadcrumb filler you get in the $4 bags of tortellini at the supermarket.

i would eat, propped up with cushions on the blue sofa, and i’d be watching my season 1 DVD of “gilmore girls” with no commentary from the sidelines, and it would be great.

(and then later, while tidying up, i would try to open the fridge with the same hand i’d be using to hold my ceramic butter dish — the one with the cow moulding on the lid — and the fridge door would jerk open suddenly, and the butter dish would spring from my hands, and shatter into several pieces on the floor. which would not be so great, actually, but i would not be upset.)

this woman also said to me, “i don’t eat a lot of bread, because when you think about it, it’s just flour and water, and what is that? glue!”

i don’t know that we can be good friends, is all.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 1 September 2007 at 11:55 pm
permalink | filed under dinner, kitchen, tv

7

the first thing counterboy said to me as i stepped into zumbo this morning was, “why haven’t you been blogging?”. to which i might have mumbled something about being busy. i dunno.

i don’t remember so much of last week. i know there was a crazy deadline that had lurched and hiccupped over the weekend, and then into the week itself, where corrections and adjustments were still being made an hour before it was due wherever it was going. and then a large bunch of flowers showed up on my doorstep the following evening. and then, um…

i met my aunt for a devonshire tea in a foodhall in chatswood, where the scones were warmed in the microwave before being plonked on a plate with two little squirts of cream-in-a-can and two tiny foil-sealed packs of kraft strawberry jam. that’ll learn us to get scones at a muffin place, although really, the scones were the best thing on the tray. she paid for morning tea, as she is wont to, and then she paid for dimsum as well. and right at the end, she handed me a box of home-made yam cake. good value, my aunt.

i met a friend (really, my sister’s friend) for brunch in newtown, and although i couldn’t persuade her to have tacos at 10am (plus, they weren’t actually open yet), we didn’t do too badly at the cafe across from the cinema, with buckwheat pancakes, coconut-infused mascarpone, maple syrup, and half the fruit in a small greengrocer. oh, and a side of bacon. she is from singapore; we spoke singlish. it was great.

i became addicted to the pre-packed exotic mushrooms at harris farm. shiitake, enoki, shimeji, and oyster mushrooms, quickly sauteed in sesame oil with rather a lot of chopped garlic and whatever asian greens are handy, poured over jasmin rice — what a dinner it made… twice! i had it first with flowering choi sum one night, and then addressed my addiction head on by buying more mushrooms to have with broccoli and baby buk choy soon after). you don’t need any more seasoning than a spoon of sea salt: the mushrooms flavour everything.

i went to the organic markets and bought just short of half a kilo of salty french-churned butter.

i found myself stepping, too casually, too often, into the jewelbox that is adriano zumbo: a mandarin macaron one day, a brioche stuffed with custard and mixed berries the next. or was it both on the same day? and another the next? i lose count.

oh! also, my sister got married, not that you’d know, since she hasn’t been blogging either.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 6 August 2007 at 8:42 pm
permalink | filed under around town, cake, kitchen, lunch, nellie, snacks, werk

3

i arrived home from melbourne to find a flurry of delivery notices on the doormat. the fedex man had been while we were gone, thrice in the week, each time leaving another official bit of card saying, “we were here, you were not”, with the final one adding rather threateningly, “we will be returning the package to sender”.

but i called them up on monday and grovelled a little bit, and a couple days later, my parcel showed up, from the good folk at penguin: a handsome hardcover called, “alone in the kitchen with an eggplant: confessions of cooking for one and dining alone” (edited by jenni ferrari-ader).

“look!” i said to the boy, “people send me books now, because i am media!”

“you mean, because you have a blog?”

“yes?”

“that’s ridiculous,” he said.

which maybe it is, a little. after all, i mean, who am i?

well, never mind me. here is a collection of 26 essays, personal stories from an eclectic mix of writers including amanda hesser (food editor of the new york times magazine), nora ephron (chickflick writer), haruki murakami (tedious postmodern novelist), and steve almond (whose book “candyfreak” — a brief history of regional american candy — i am also currently in the middle of). i am reading them as the editor intended — in order — and a handful of chapters in, have encountered someone who ate asparagus every day for two months, someone who was happy to subsist on crackers:

…most nights i did not feel fancy at all. i ate slices of white cheese on saltines with a dollop of salsa, then smoothly transitioned to saltines spread with butter and jam for dessert. i would eat as many as were required to no longer be hungry and then i would stop.
– ann patchett

…someone who relied on black beans throughout grad school, someone — at last — who didn’t make eating at home alone seem quite so dire:

my home-alone dinners are often composed of one or two flavours, prepared in a way that underlines their best qualities. eggs are high on the list. i rarely eat breakfast but i adore eggs and there are very few opportunities to eat them at other times of the day. so i might poach one and lay it on a nest of peppery or bitter greens. i might toss a poached egg with pasta, steamed spinach and good olive oil, and shower it with freshly-grated nutmeg and cheese. or, i might press a hard boiled egg through a sieve and sprinkle the fluffy egg curds over asparagus. – amanda hesser

which is the way it should be, no? when else are you going to get the chance to cook exactly what you want to eat, without having to take into consideration anyone else’s particularities? the week i had to myself, that week boy and kid were away, i made spaghetti with shredded brussels sprouts sauteed in rocket pesto, and a tofu green curry with as many green vegetables as i could pack in. i’m sure i would’ve made several more meat-free, veggie-packed things, but i also had to fit in some leisurely solo cafe meals, a vegetarian dinner at BBQ king — it can be done!, and adriano zumbo, three times.

this is a book about how food fits into people’s lives. there are no glossy photographs of tasteful little dinners and convenient lunches, but there are recipes now and again, for such things as roasted beet and cucumber salad with ricotta salata, truffled egg toast, kippers mash, yellowfin tuna with heirloom tomatoes and oil-cured olive and caper salsa. see, it doesn’t all have to be about drinking your lonely way through a giant pot of soup.

though it could be, if you wanted it so. it’s not so horrible to eat alone, is it? don’t you? (and what do you eat? tell me. tell me!)

and that is why this book is such an enjoyable read: all those dirty little dietary secrets. and, ok, all the moments of glorious self-discovery. it’s like reading food blogs! at its best, it’s like reading orangette.

i am looking forward to the penultimate chapter, “instant noodles” by rattawut lapcharoensap, because actually, that is one of the things i like to eat best, when i have the pleasure — the luxury — of being home alone.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 24 July 2007 at 2:35 pm
permalink | filed under blog, bookshelf, kitchen

8

two weeks ago, the kid and i stood at the kitchen counter — she, perched, with toes curled around the very edge of a dining chair — sifting maccha powder into flour. we melted butter, we cracked eggs. we were finally giving the maccha madeleines a go (ref: the post, “the ethnic paris cookbook“).

it started off great. a newly acquired madeleine pan, a pale green batter that had to sit overnight in the fridge. “and now, can we make the shell cakes?” asked the kid, periodically.

and finally, the next day, it was time. i tried to fill the madeleine tray to two-third’s [is this apostrophe correct?] capacity as specified in the recipe, but there was so much of it that it came up to the brim. i whacked them in the oven for as long as the recipe said, and waited for it to be a bit puffed up, before turning down the temperature for a little more baking. and even given the unevenness and hotness of my oven, and the little blurb on the back of the madeleine tray packaging that extolled the superconducting properties of silicone, i wasn’t quite expecting this:

they were puffed up way more than you might think possible, and yet, not quite enough, for each one had broken out the top of itself. the single one that hadn’t blown its top seemed to have sprung a leak out of its side. a leaky tumour. when i removed them after the recommended baking time, it became clear that even though the outsides of the madeleines had browned quite nicely, and they had risen to majestic (ok, monstrous) heights in the oven, they still had quite runny insides. that tumour? it was still molten.

i gingerly removed one from the tray and bit into it, and it was not horrible. in fact, the parts that had cooked through had a nice spongy texture, slightly chewy, and a mild maccha-and-honey taste. i left the others to cool while i decided what to do. and when i returned, my alien pod cakes had turned into alien vagina cakes of doom.

i wonder if madeleines are the new macaron (the new cupcake?). deborah had a very successful run with her honey madeleines, and kathy turned out quite the golden bounty.

clearly some temperature tweaking is ahead of me. [grumble]

posted by ragingyoghurt on 2 June 2007 at 5:38 pm
permalink | filed under cake, kitchen

1

how has a week gone by already? it’s like time travel i tells ya. last sunday morning we were a flurry of activity, pretzel-dipping. this time i roped in eager little hands: grabby fingers to break up a lindt bar, agile fingers to fish pretzels out of the chocolate bath, grubby fingers from samples along the way.

we packed a picnic then: buffalo mozzarella and pesto sandwich for me, tasty cheese and avocado sandwich for the kid, and a little box of sliced tomatoes for on-site insertion. a couple of mandarins in the basket, and a few chocolate-dipped pretzels for good measure. we were off to the acoustica festival, just up the hill and then down the hill from home.

from the crest we looked down into birchgrove oval, and it was like a quaint village through the clearing. an arc of little white tents lined the perimeter, some festooned with balloons, proferring all manner of festival foods, sunglasses and quick massages. there was a giant inflatable slide, and a swing-carousel, and something with a row of clowns’ heads that swiveled to and fro.

in the middle of it all there was a boy and his guitar. he was the first act of the day, and the front row was his friends from high school. there was no second row — it was very early in the proceedings — so we sat a couple metres back, on my $10 “burberry” picnic rug, and minutes later, as he played an elliott smith song, all the food was gone.

“can we go and buy some ice cream?” asked the kid. it was a reasonable request, even though the new zealand natural ice cream stand was charging an unreasonable $4 per scoop.

we returned to our rug to catch as many minutes of act number two as it took for the pink ice cream to be eaten, and then, “can we go to the face painting?”

we returned to our rug — one of us hopping all the way — to see the third act of the day, but it was perhaps too much to ask of the kid. she was already being pulled in the direction of the playground up the hill. we left in the middle of some pretty good 12-bar blues.

considering the last live music i saw was baby proms at the opera house, and the second last live music was a playschool concert, i was pretty happy.

this makes me happy too: the six-month expired box of royce nama chocolate in my fridge is still completely edible! these little bricks of fine chocolate, each one dusted in cocoa powder, pack a punch of dark chocolate flavour and melt away to nothing on my tongue. actually, the google translated page tells it better:

it is the raw chocolate of the sweetness moderate adult. …the elegant fragrance starts overflowing, V.S.O.P was blended in the bitter chocolate. tastefulness it is the raw chocolate of the adult taste where the elegant fragrance and the bitter impression of overflowing do not accumulate.

all true. it is made with fresh cream, and apparently has a shelf life of one month. but i have put it to the test, and six months past 27 october 2006, they are still perfect. now that’s time travel.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 28 April 2007 at 9:15 pm
permalink | filed under around town, chocolate, kid, kitchen, snacks

2

mashed potatoes. truly the gift that keeps giving. a little over a week ago, i made mash out of four enormous golden delight potatoes. the portion we did get around to eating — with a crispy-skinned salmon fillet and a side of mixed asian mushrooms quickly sauteed in oil-butter-garlic — i mixed in the last few brussels sprouts in the crisper, thinly sliced and fried up with minced garlic. mmm… smooth, creamy mash with bitter green crunch.

the next evening, following too much lunch at a chinatown foodcourt, i made a light dinner of fishcakes! a tin of red salmon, a tin of sweetcorn kernels, a good grating of butternut pumpkin, a cursory beaten egg and the leftover mashed potato: squished up in-between my fingers and formed, most of it, into palm-sized patties. these i coated in an improvised dusting of flour, polenta, pepper and salt. and then i fried them up to golden crunchy brown and we had three helpings for dinner — that’s five or six fishcakes. huff.

but quite a bit of leftover mash, bulked out with salmon and corn and pumpkin, yields quite a lot of fishcake mix. so we had fishcakes for lunch sunday, and then the boy left for south america on tuesday morning, and then i fried up the remainder mix for fishcakes on tuesday night, and then, surely tempting the gods of food poisoning, had the very last two on wednesday afternoon for lunch, as a sandwich, with sliced tomatoes and dijonnaise. yum.

after i served up dinner tuesday night, and before i was quite ready to sit down and eat, the kid scrambled up onto my chair, and was reaching past my plate to get to the spoon in her bowl.

she said, “i want to eat some of your yellow thing. your yummy yellow thing.”

“you mean, the fishcakes?” i asked. she had previously been dissecting them with her bare hands, picking out all the corn first up, and then maybe eating a handful or two of the mushy innards.

“no,” she said. “your yummy creamy yellow thing.”

“oh,” i said. “um. that is mayonnaise mixed with mustard. i’m not sure that you will like it. but you can try.” so she did.

“was it yummy?” i asked.

“no.”

posted by ragingyoghurt on 23 April 2007 at 9:47 pm
permalink | filed under dinner, kid, kitchen

7



in the midst of one of those two-hour, long-distant calls to nellicent the other night, i asked, “um, where is your sainbury’s?”. i thought that i’d made it seem an innocent question, apropos of nothing, though my index finger was making random loop-de-loops on the magazine page.

she gave it serious thought. “oh. it’s in [name of suburb], on [name of street] and –,” she paused, before the shrieking began. “i know what you want!!”

“argh!” i shrieked back, “i want it! i want it!”

“i know what you want! i have already bought it for you, in my head!”

“well,” i said, “i hope that you are not talking about cheese.”

because i surely wasn’t. a week ago, i’d read a story on anya hindmarch, in “vogue“, that mentioned a shopping bag she’d designed for sainsbury’s in the UK, in one of those everybody-wins exercises to reduce plastic bag consumption. and what a bag. before it’s even gone on sale at the supermarkets, it’s already sold out its online pre-sale allotments, and gone on to appear on ebay at forty times its original cost.

we went on to discuss the logistics of obtaining one (or two!) of these bags — which sainsbury’s branches might sell them, and if she might have to rope in one of her friends in case there was a one-per-customer limit (there is!) — and now that i’ve read a bit more about the madness, it all seems just a bit too stella-at-target.
so perhaps i won’t be getting one after all.

but what better time to spruik the raging yoghurt shopping bag? ok, so it’s not designed by anya hindmarch, is not a limited edition, will cost you more than £5, and will make me a couple of bucks too… but you can hang it over your shoulder and carry all manner of groceries in it, just like the sainsbury’s one. anyway, don’t you just need another canvas shopping bag? i myself have a selection of eight or ten hanging from my laundry door.

and while we’re on the hindmarch comparisons, look what i made saturday morning: chocolate-covered pretzels.



after breakfast (sour cherry jam on buttered rye and caraway bagel, yum) i melted down a 100g bar of lindt dark chocolate in a large bowl over a pot of simmering water. i tipped in a bag of salted pretzels, and stirred until everyone was well-coated. i fished them out with a bamboo skewer and laid them out to set on a sheet of grease-proof paper. it’s an effortless and addictive snack, i tell you, with the bittersweet chocolate (just a thin enough coat to start melting in the warmth of your fingertips), and the sharp crunch of the pretzel, and the lingering surprise of a random salt chip.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 15 April 2007 at 1:42 pm
permalink | filed under breakfast, chocolate, kitchen, nellie, shoping, snacks

1

so i was talking to my aunt on the phone over the weekend, and when i mentioned that i had the house all to myself, she became quite concerned. “you musn’t forget to eat,” she advised. i may have laughed out loud. and then i told her that i had made wontons the night before, and i had a brown bag full of bagels.

high on the carb rush from our saturday bondi bagelthon, deborah and i returned to the city and trawled the aisles of harris farm at broadway, coming away with such treats as a quarter of a cabbage, a tray of oyster mushrooms, a bag of bean sprouts, a punnet of strawberries, a wedge of peppery pecorino, two ruby red grapefruit and a bag of small salty pretzels.

for the premium sweet and salty snack, the pretzels will be dipped in lindt 70%. rather than, y’know, the easter clearance chocolate i pounced on in the shopping centre foyer: a kilo of quality milk chocolate for $10… but that is really a story for another time.

the mushrooms, cabbage and sprouts went into the inaugural homemade saturday night wonton noodle soup (mushroom broth), and made me very happy.

the strawberries, i am eating right now, after my third pork fried rice dinner since friday; there was a lot of pork mince leftover from my wonton-making exercise. but last night saw an addition of shredded cabbage and bean sprouts, and tonight, lovely, crunchy, greeeeen celery.

i discovered this afternoon, that my local supermarket sells individual wands of trimmed celery! this is perfect, because no-one else in this house eats celery, and anyway, a whole bunch never fits into my crisper drawer. at $3.98 a kilo, three batons cost me all of 67c. sliced finely and fried with minced ginger and garlic, it was a delicious addition to an already satisfying meal.

who doesn’t love fried rice?

posted by ragingyoghurt on 9 April 2007 at 7:35 pm
permalink | filed under chocolate, dinner, kitchen, shoping
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