ragingyoghurt

Category Archives: cake

1

which is not to say i eschewed cakes of other colours. never! of course, cake in a wide range of hues was eaten during our long-gone holiday. (long-gone when i began to write this, and now, weeks later, long-long-long gone.)

these charred and glisteny things were had in malaysia, in the house of my grandmother. ang ku kueh (lit. red tortoise cakes) — glutinous rice pastry, moulded to look like the shell of a tortoise, wrapped around sweetened mung bean paste — has a tendency to be mouth after mushy mouth of mush. leftover ang ku kueh, lightly pan fried so a crusty, caramelised skin forms, is a whole other level of sublime. this simple process has made me see ang ku kueh in a new light. but then, when has frying not made a thing better?

here: a homemade curry puff, another in the long line of tasty treats to come from my grandmother’s kitchen (this one by way of a particularly talented aunt). the filling is a basic potato curry, comforting and familiar. the star is the pastry: two doughs — one of oil and the other of water — folded together; they separate as they bake, into layers of crispy-flakey. my mother said something about each curry puff being the equivalent of a day’s requirements of cholesterol. that day i had three.

we also came away with a small supply of mee ku (lit. tortoise bun — what is it with the hokkien people and their predilection for tortoise-shaped comestibles?). simple airy white bread, painted pink and steamed, it is an all-round canvas to all manner of topping, from a lick of kaya to a slab of roasted pork belly stewed in thick black soy sauce. also: a crunchy condiment (also from my grandmother’s kitchen) of spicy dried prawns. the bread goes first, almost dissolves in your mouth, leaving the little crunchy bits of prawns and garlic to be nibbled on for a little longer.

here’s another savoury cake. to be precise, a bento of snacksized portions of glutinous rice from yonehachi okowa, into which flavouring ingredients like red beans or seaweed or salmon or glisteny, oily pork, or sweet, toothsome chestnuts have been mixed. the vats of rice are located just by the takashimaya food hall escalators, and i passed them by on many an occasion (always casting them a longing gaze) before i finally bit at the sampler. i should have bitten sooner! each nugget was lip-smackingly tasty, and almost convincing as a wholesome meal, instead of the pile of glycaemic-boosting, oily sticky rice which they collectively comprised.

at the other end of the food hall we found sapporo petit doughnuts. these are cooked in moulds much like obanyaki (the puck-shaked pancakes filled with bean paste… or laughing cow) or taiyaki (the fish-shaped ones)… and therein lies my problem with them. i like pancakes, i really do. but when i’ve been led to expect doughnuts, then a bland, spongy, little nubblet — albeit doughnut shaped — stuffed with a mildly sweet (overly starchy) strawberry-flavoured pink custard just isn’t going to do it for me. the sperical ones with a milk custard filling were equally uninspiring.

is it because we didn’t eat ‘em hot? they weren’t even packaged up straight from the pan. alas, i shall never find out, as i will not be giving them a second chance.

i thought i might get another go at the coconut pandan bagel, from NYC bagel factory (baked fresh every day in bedok north). i don’t know if mine was baked fresh the day i got it, in a sealed bag in the bread aisle at our local supermarket. fresh out of the bag, it was promisingly fragrant. look at those toasted coconut shavings!

i toasted it, and then because my mother’s fridge was lacking in suitable condiments, i had it with a mere smear of margarine. this is of course, a more “authentic” topping, though not as authentic if it’d been scraped from a monster tin of planta. still, i think i’d much rather have had a swirl of kaya, or condensed milk… maybe even some of those sambal dried prawns. next time…

i had not been to toast in some years, partly because i could never remember how to find my way to the secret hidden corner in ngee ann city. but my memories were of a sweet pink cafe, with a scallop-edged logo, a homely sandwich called “sardine istimewa” — the special sardine, and a host of cupcakes. it’s much more sleek these days, and there is not a sardine sandwich on the menu (you can get tuna instead), but the cakes are pretty much the same. or are they?

after a big, fat egg & cress sandwich, the kid chose the s’mores cupcake. what a beauty! there is toasted marchmallow, and chocolate, and…

a graham cracker crust! amazing. we wondered at the architectural feat, and the kid devoured the marshmallow topping, and then the cake more of less crumbled into a pile of dry crumbs. huh. well, that was disappointing.

i had an enormous plate of three delicious salads, and then i went back to the counter and ordered this enormous slice of apple pie. it should have been good, dammit. how could it not? a thing of beauty, and mostly apple. i suppose the apples were fine. the pastry, however, was not light or crisp. it was just a little bit flabby and flaccid.

but this was a lesson i learnt a while ago: in singapore, the taste of western-style cakes rarely lives up to their appearance.

now, in the display case of fruit paradise, where the choices are fruit tarts, fruits tarts and fruits tarts — the singaporean take on the japanese take on french fruit tarts — the actual cakes are placed side by side with their plastic counterparts. when i first encountered them a couple of years ago, i couldn’t tell the difference between the two. i suspect the only difference is that the edible one is softer: each tart is composed of mainly creme patissier and whipped cream, maybe a bit of light sponge, topped with a variety of picture-perfect fresh fruit. we picked the blueberry tart, which had fresh blueberries as well as cubes of blueberry jelly. it made for a nice five minutes, as we stood at our kitchen counter late one night, eating it far too quickly. after all, we didn’t have to chew.

also not requiring mastication:

a scoop of salted caramel ice cream, from salted caramel. i’d just come from a dinner of a monstrous sardine murtabak a couple of doors down, so i only had a tasting portion of the house speciality. it was, as you might expect, sweet and salty and creamy. which is fine and all, but i wanted more from it! they named the shop after it, no? i imagine it would’ve been more memorable had it been “saltier” and more “caramelicious”. maybe my expectations were buoyed by the logo, so striking; in contrast, the ice cream, so beige.

close to the end of our trip, i still had not paid a visit to the ice cream uncles of orchard road, with their soft rainbow bread, pink wafers and blocks of cheap, airy ice cream from which they’ll cut you a slice for your $1 ice cream sandwich. i didn’t regret it. instead, i steered the proceedings to the wellness group.

[ now. does this bit of packaging from not remind you of mariage freres? it wants you to believe the maison was fondeed in 1837, but this refers to the year the tea trade was made official in singapore. TWG is in fact only a handful of years old, co-founded by a man who, yes, did work at mariage freres. ]

there are a couple of branches of TWG at marina bay sands. from the one where you can eat on a bridge over the indoor canal and watch the gondolas go past, you can also buy ice cream by the scoop and stroll along the promenade. this is superpremium stuff, as evidenced by the $5 per scoop pricetag, all infused with a range of TWG teas. my cup of white night jasmine tea ice cream was quite delicious and lush, voluptuous on my tongue.

i wish i could show you the ice cream i had at the daily scoop, at holland village, which was avocado, a vision in pale green. however, i was too busy eating it. i’d felt a bit squeamish ordering it — a sweet-savoury-anticipatory issue, which turned out to be unfounded: it was all pleasant verdancy.

i wish i could have posted this weeks and weeks ago, when i started writing it. however i was too busy… i dunno. working? there is a bunch of money in my bank account, so the time must’ve been spent productively.

i wish i could be somewhere else. figuratively, literally, anywhere but here.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 10 August 2012 at 11:08 am
permalink | filed under cake, snacks, trip

4

i was in the kitchen the other night when a wobble-board kind of noise, and maybe the tiniest wobble, came from behind the wall. “what kind of home improvement is the neighbour up to at this time of night?” i wondered. then i finished making my cup of tea and thought nothing more of it. turns out it was the biggest earthquake to hit victoria in 109 years, and then before i even knew it, it was over. it feels less bleak these days. i expect it’s only cosmetic though, but if i don’t try too hard, it is easy to ignore the darkness. possible to embrace it, even, in the form of black cake. ah, the shadowy spectre of holidays past…

my habitual first stop in singapore, muji, yielded a two-pack of black muffins. the little dessicant packet and the goodness of humectant created the perfect sealed-in-plastic micro-climate for a perfect, moist cakelet. i seem to remember that one of the ingredients listed was “carbon”, although it was mostly black sesame. also: soft and spongy, sticky and sweet, and a little bit otherworldly. i did become quite obsessed with black sesame cakes while we were away. it was easy: in singapore, they are everywhere.

from mushiya steamers in the ion foodcourt, a kurogoma mochi kintoki steamer. doesn’t it just look like a package of good fortune? inauspiciously, as the shopgirl tonged the cake into a plastic bag, she sneezed. all over it. “um.” i said incredulously. “you just sneezed all over it.” she was nice enough to fetch me a fresh one (i had to ask), although it didn’t taste particularly fresh. it turned out to be much like a local huat kueh — steamed spongey bready cake made with a variety of leavening agents; my grandmother favoured a can of creaming soda — just drier around the edges. the cake was somewhat bland with the gentlest hint of black sesame flavour; the embedded jewels — assorted beans and a fat chewy mochi artfully arranged over the top– were slightly more compelling.

another food court, another steamed bun. from food republic at vivocity, a pair of black sesame buns. these were fresh out of the steamer — lovely, pillowy soft dough wrapped around a rich, sweet filling of black sesame paste. it’s the kind of thing where after you eat it, you must check your teeth to make sure that there are not pockets of black tucked into the crevices. once in new york i snacked on black sesame crackers on my way to meeting my sister at her supercool lower manhattan publishing house. i met all her supercool colleagues. i smiled and chatted. and then after we’d left, she caught a glimspe at the side of my smile and exclaimed, horrified, “what is that!?”

masticated black sesame seeds, nyup nyup.

on to more pleasant memories. the black sesame society, from bread society at ion. soft, slightly sweet bun studded with sesame seeds. a fat ribbon of black sesame buttercream. a dusting of fine sugar. it was probably the best in show (the easter holiday black sesame show), but then i am particularly partial to a cream bun. regretfully, i never made it back for another. the end of our holiday came upon us far too soon.

even so, there had been enough time for five or six trips to muji. on my last, wistful jaunt, i finally gave in to a large bag of individually packaged black bean and barley biscuits, which i packed into my luggage along with a dour pile of stripey shirts-socks-dresses in sombre shades of grey and greyish blue. somewhat sympathetically, these bite-sized biscuits are barely sweet, decidedly savoury, and taste of healthfood. they are a sturdy crunch which gives way to a sandy mouthful. the blackbeans do not crumble of course. they resist, challenging your molars. they are by no means horrible, but i can’t have more than one at a go. no doubt they will last through this cold, cruel winter, giving me sustenance at my desk, one humourless bite at a time.

and finally, yes, the black baumkuchen. the muji incarnation is not a charming ring of cake carved from a log on a spit. instead, it is a black slab (cut from said ring) industrial enough that it was mistaken for a newfangled cleaning product by another member of the household (like, i would buy a cleaning product! ha!). do not fear. i rescued it just in time, and so can tell you that, even two months past its best-before date, it only needs a few seconds in the microwave to freshen up, forming part of a demure sunday morning breakfast, with a side of gingery daufufa and a crackle cup of genmaicha.

it wasn’t quite as moist as the aforementioned black muffin, due, i suppose, to its cooking method of being roasted one thin layer at a time. the flavour was black sesame with a slight smoky edge. truly a post-apocalyptic cake appropriate for this time in which i live.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 26 June 2012 at 1:46 pm
permalink | filed under around town, cake, snacks

4

now. where were we?

ah yes, singapore. singapore, where the daily forecast of thunderstorms will overshadow any plans one may be so bold as to make.

one day, we planned for cake. while the sun shone, we walked to the local mall. we peered into each toy capsule machine; we dined at mos burger. and then, just as the kid started getting twitchy, and the clouds rolled in, we pulled up at the icing room.

the icing room is a vision in pink — from the overwrought filigreed signage to the dainty mosaic tileage underfoot all the way to the shopgirls in their japanese fantasy waitress outfits. up front, there are mini gateaux (pink, but also in colours other than) and biscuits and macarons, and a small sitting area in which to eat them.

in the back of the shop is a row of professional rotating cake stands (and a tower of ikea stools for perching — i expect the kids’ workshops are quite well-subscribed). this is where the magic happens. so, you can just rock up, and for under $12 you get a small cake — iced in white, a perfectly primed canvas — and a tray of coloured buttercream and gels and tiny sugar flowers. for bigger bucks there are more elaborate decorations on offer, and bigger cakes, but for us, a modest start.

the kid put down a squiggle of pink. “wait,” i cautioned. “do you know what you are going to do? have you got a plan in your head of how you want it to look?”

“yes,” she said, after a pause. she added another squiggle.

and so it went.

blobs, then squiggles, then a considered placing of sugar flowers. bunting ’round the side. blobs on blobs.

and then…

it was quite amazing! so much for the modest start!

we walked home then, pleased, and it didn’t even drizzle until the very last few steps. later that night, we unveiled the cake for dessert.

it was the very best kind of light, fluffy, innocuous sponge, layered with whipped cream and tinned fruit cocktail. unexpectedly delectable. there were seconds all around. the kid may have even had thirds.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 12 May 2012 at 3:14 pm
permalink | filed under cake, kid, trip

2

i was in the city so early the other day that my go-to sushi roll place at melbourne central was only three rolls into their display. cupcakes then.

cupcake central recently launched their autumn collection, which includes this adorable butter popcorn cupcake. why so bashful, little cake? you’re an exceptionally moist creamed corn cake, topped with a pouf of vanilla frosting, a drizzle of caramel sauce and a crunchy cluster of caramel popcorn. yum! it darned near knocked the black velvet off its preferred cupcake perch.

the hot chocolate was pretty good too, served in a fetching blue cup of sturdy china and topped with shaved chocolate. do i even need to mention the tidy little wooden snack tray on which cup and cake are delivered? surely one of the more agreeable ways to rid yourself of that five dollar bill in your purse.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 23 March 2012 at 11:52 am
permalink | filed under breakfast, cake

0

choukette, down the road, plies a trade in little french treats. a black sesame macaron is a fine treat on any given day, pleasingly chewy with its buttercream filling all subtly nutty. (a rose macaron is also a fine treat, as is one filled with salted butter caramel…)

but what of the chouquettes, for which the shop is named? you can get a dozen in a large paper bag, corners twisted as they do in paris (i imagine), for five dollars, and you can eat them as you head back up the street. they are just balls of choux pastry, dotted with large sugar crystals, but they are strangely compelling. by the second set of lights, you will suddenly realise that you’ve gobbled down four.

stop.

save some for when you get home. slice them open, and fill them with ice cream and berries. i suppose it defeats the purpose of a simple little pastry, but daymn, it makes for a perfect mouthful — surely the finest treat that day.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 18 March 2012 at 8:30 pm
permalink | filed under cake, ice cream

3

sometimes, if the timing’s right, i’ll drop kid #1 off at school, and then amble the perambulator up to the main street with kid #2. it’s usually good for a quick burst of grocery shopping while he catches another nap, though if i’m feeling really lucky, i’ll try and have myself a cafe breakfast. last friday, i wheeled us up the ramp at albert street food and wine, dark and imposing as an old bank (which it is) on the outside, but friendly and light within.

they bring water quickly at albert street, in elegant gold-tinted glasses, and take drink orders straight up. however, they may then take 15 minutes or so to come back and take your food order, even if there are only a couple of other tables to attend to. this means that a baby might have awoken in his pram in the meantime, and might — after a little bit of quiet reflection — require some attention. we chatted for a bit, and then admired the industrial fittings and high ceilings, and then eventually the waitress thought to check in and see if we wanted breakfast. when i placed my order for the baked ricotta with peaches, the waitress warned, “it will be a good 15 minutes, because it is baked to order, but if you have the time it is worth it!”

i made a quick calculation in my head, balancing out recent feeds and naps: 15 minutes, no problem. and then we sat and waited. the rolling stones were on repeat, and for a while harlan was happy enough bouncing along. he looked out the windows into the street. i sipped tea. he watched the other small children on either side of us. and then we got up for a bit and wandered through the adjoining food store — jams and terrines and house-made pickles; chocolate and wine and olive oil; a basket of heirloom tomatoes, perfect as jewels… and then we waited some more. 15 minutes takes a while sometimes, and seemed to take even longer when the tables around us, who hadn’t ordered the baked ricotta, were getting their mueslis and breakfast piadini delivered.

and finally, finally, just as harlan progressed from spirited fidgeting to low-grade growling, the waitress brought this shallow dish to the table:

well! it was not what i was expecting. on the menu, simply listed as “baked ricotta, peaches, almonds, local honey”, it gave no clues. and i mean, baked ricotta, right? you see it in delis, it’s a cake of ricotta still indented all over with the grooves from the plastic tub in which it is set, and the counterperson will cut you a wedge: under its brown skin, it’s cold and dense. here was a veritable golden pudding, all dusted in powdered sugar and drizzled with honey, with little peaks of chopped up peaches peering tantalising through the surface.

it really was quite lovely. peach juicy and perfumed, cakier towards the edges, and still moist and eggy in the middle, punctuated by the crunch from the toasted flaked almonds. alas, two mouthfuls in, harlan decided that the half hour he’d waited was enough; 15 minutes of waiting to order, and 15 minutes of waiting for food had exhausted his goodwill. which was fair enough, really.

when quiet reasoning failed, i thought i might have to leave the rest of my breakfast. the toddler across the room had already thrown a high-pitched screaming tantrum some minutes earlier, so i didn’t feel i could inflict upon the dining room another grumble. but when i stood up to put the child back in the pram, he fell silent.

and so, yes, i did eat the remainder of my pudding, standing up and rather a bit quicker than i would have normally… but as the waitress said, it was worth it.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 5 March 2012 at 12:26 pm
permalink | filed under breakfast, cake

3

and so the strange summer — now it’s hot! now it’s not! — eddies to a close. inbetween breastfeeding sessions on the couch, there were a few big city excursions over the school holidays: a bookmaking workshop at the library; an afternoon of getting tangled in ribbon at the forecourt of the arts centre; a few hours with the upside down sea jellies at the aquarium… however it did seem like we spent a lot of time at the mall, and not just for cupcakes.

(but look at it! the drumstick, from cupcake central — a rather splendiferous concoction of chocolate-filled vanilla cake topped with an immense swirl of frosting, a drizzle of chocolate and butterscotch, chopped peanuts, and a wafer. much less messy than an ice cream on the train home.)

no, melbourne central, we found, contained a secret oasis in the middle of the hot, bustley city. we’d been to the parents’ room at myer a couple of times; it was nice and all — wall decals, comfy though inefficiently arranged seating — but it was always crowded with queues for the two nappy-changing stations, and for some strange reason, all toilets but one were kept locked. we’d been to the one in david jones all of once. you’d think it would be fancy, but in fact it was a rather depressing, drab, beige room. with perfunctory chairs, wedged into a corner, surrounded by a bank of reeking nappy bins.

so the melbourne central parents’ retreat was a bit of a revelation. yes, more than just a room. it’s a spacious haven divided into zones:

a nappy-changing area, with a sink with boiling water tap and microwave for food preparation.

a lounge area with cosy (spinning!) chairs.

roomy curtained cubicles in blue, green and red for privacy — each one containing a stylish and comfortable armchair, adorable table, and an abridged and woefully (un)subedited version of little red riding hood as wallpaper.

a little nook with booth seating where you can bring in your food from the nearby dining hall (my pick is the impossibly tasty brown rice sushi rolls filled with spicy salmon, or spinach and sesame).

…and yes, climbing racks, amongst other play equipment.

the kid was most impressed with the little peepholes and cubbies, for quiet time…

and the amazing suspended ropes for rambunctious swinging fun.

there are gates to keep small people contained, and an automatic air freshener dispenses a puff of inoffensive fragrance every now and then. a cleaner comes through often. yes, harlan will grow up happy here… the weather of late is conducive to sushi and cupcakes, and i think i might like a browse at the gap.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 22 February 2012 at 8:10 pm
permalink | filed under around town, cake, misc

0

(past christmastime at mediterranean wholesalers, or whenever really, you can pick a little cake from the display and sit yourself down at a table at the coffee bar. the pistachio bigne comes filled with a smooth custard of palest green, and encrusted with chopped nuts like so many barnacles. do not feel like you must order a hot chocolate to go with. it is made with cadbury’s powder, and even then, not nearly enough of it. if it’s still close enough after christmastime, they will sell you a generous slice of panettone for a dollar to go with whatever beverage you end up with.)

posted by ragingyoghurt on 25 January 2012 at 9:14 pm
permalink | filed under cake

3

in the weeks leading up to christmas, we embarked on a mission of reconnaissance at mediterranean wholesalers. down the back, where it’s normally wafers, stood a great wall of panettone. there was plenty to choose from, but our choice was mostly immediately clear: the etna. the year before, we saw actual etna from a great distance as we rode the sicilian railway from agrigento to catania. now was our chance to observe the volcano close up. the box was very persuasive: see how the candied fruit dances above the cake, just like an erupting volcano! before we left for the countryside, we returned to the shop to claim our own.

in fact, this was one of those times when the product matches quite closely the depiction on the packaging. despite the manhandling at the cash register, it was more or less perfect when unwrapped. the food technologists in italy are doing a sterling job. it was melty hot outside, but the stabilisers in the vanilla icing — rich and creamy — worked hard to maintain the illusion of a snow-capped mountain in our kitchen.

underneath, the chocolate cake was the bready sort, not too sweet and possessing a pleasant cocoa flavour. much of the sweetness came from the hidden reservoirs of blood orange sauce, and the candied… something.

it wasn’t orange peel; my memory seems to recall the packaging listing maybe arrowroot as an ingredient.

it made for a run of festive breakfasts as we counted down to christmas, but all too soon, it was gone.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 22 January 2012 at 1:59 pm
permalink | filed under breakfast, cake

6

2012 clicked over without too much of a to-do. i think it was about 11.55 on the night of 31 december when i went to bed, no longer willing to play the guessing game of “will harlan wake up for a feed in ten minutes, or three hours?” i heard the fireworks going off in the city. harlan awoke about two hours later. but it’s not like we’ve been having an uneventful summer.

just shy of xmas, we hightailed it out of the city, into the northeastern corner of victoria, where the boy has a little patch of dirt. we brought along our kmart xmas tree, and scattered a handful of presents underneath. then we got along with the business of a summer holiday. bike rides for some…

and dipping our toes in sunshine at the nearby woolshed falls…

(while others of us dozed in the shade of the björn)…

(and elsewhere).

there was the endless washing of washers.

evenings, we walked the town, listening to birdsong and spying on wild bunnies. around the train station it’s rife with bunnies.

during the day we hid from the heat, or we searched out local delicacies. at the aldi in wodonga, we bought ham steaks and maple (flavoured) syrup and a six-pack of mince tarts. dinner sorted, we said, pleased, as they came up the conveyor belt. (though we were kidding — dinner was at the local chicken shop.)

another day, i came across a wonderful mulberry dacquoise at the beechworth pantry. crunchy hazelnut meringue sandwiching fat berries in cream. there may be no better cake in this pocket of victoria.

and then there was christmas, at the town called the rock — a glut of prawns and an endless supply of miniature chocolate bars. there was lemon tart and cream sprayed from a can. there were presents, oh my word, yes.

back in chiltern, we resumed the evening strolls. the weather had cooled down some and everything was green,

green,

green.

posted by ragingyoghurt on 3 January 2012 at 4:55 pm
permalink | filed under cake, trip
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